Jul 20, 2013

I kroj ide ... / And the pattern goes to ...

Dragi čitaoci, hvala vam što ste se prijavili za nagradnu igru. Žao mi je što vas nije bilo više, ali šta da se radi? Dakle, sinoć sam, čim je zatvoreno prijavljivanje za igru, izvukla troje dobitnika. Koristila sam Random.org sajt za generisanje slučajnih brojeva, pri čemu sam kandidate poređala po redosledu prijavljivanja. Čestitam Mirjani iz Beograda, Lakaribane sa Haitija i DksWife iz SAD. Molim vas, pošaljite mi vaše adrese na anajan.stepalica@gmail.com. Potrudiću se da što pre izmodelujem krojeve.  

Dear readers, thank you for applying for the giveaway. I'm sorry there weren't more of you, but it is as it is. So, last night, just after the applying was closed, I randomly picked the three winners. I used the Random.org website to randomly generate three numbers, and I sorted the participants by order of applying. Congratulations to Mirjana from Belgrade (Serbia), Lakaribane from Haiti and DksWife from the USA. Please, send me your address to anajan.stepalica@gmail.com. I'll do my best to draft the patterns ASAP.


Anonymous7/12/2013
Suknja je divna kao i uostalom sve sto si do sada sasila. Ja sam koristila tvoj kroj za haljinu i kosulju i savrseno su mi odgovarali kao da su za mene pravljeni:) Moja velicina je 42 ( struk je 38). Veliki pozdrav!
Mirjana iz Beograda

I'm a Burda 38 (actually 19 but whatever!) and I always loved that skirt. I read your post and I am glad you made an improved version. I live in Haïti.

I would love to win a pattern. Size 44 for me. I live in the US. Thanks so much for the contest. 

Jul 12, 2013

Štepalica časti - nagradna igra / Štepalica treats you - a giveaway

Fejsbuk grupa "Štepalica" je juče dobila četristotog člana (a tokom dana i još par članova više), što me jako obradovalo, jer sam stranicu pokrenula relativno skoro. 
S tim u vezi, htela sam da častim čitaoce zanimljivim poklonom. Troje srećnih dobitnika će dobiti kroj za suknju sa faltama koje se pretvaraju u gajke za kaiš, kakvu sam već pokazala na blogu pre koji dan. Svaki kroj ću napraviti u željenoj veličini dobitnika i poslati ga na kućnu adresu, dok će instrukcije biti u obliku PDF fajla koji ću narezati na CD i poslati zajedno sa krojem.

The Facebook group "Štepalica" got its 400th member yesterday (and a few more during the day), which really surprised me since I've started the group recently.
Therefore, I wanted to treat the readers with an interesting gift. Three lucky winners will get a pattern for the skirt with pleats that transform into belt loops, which I wrote about the other day. I'll draft each of the patterns in a size the winner wishes to have and send it to a home address; instructions will be in a PDF format and sent to the winners on a CD along with the pattern.



Veličine koje su u opticaju su date u tabeli ispod (kliknite na sliku da je uvećate) - u pitanju su standardne veličine koje koristi Burda časopis. 

The skirt sizes you can pick from are given in a table below (click on the picture to enlarge it) - these are standard measurements Burda Style uses.


Pravila nagradne igre su sledeća: 
  • ostavite komentar na ovaj post, zajedno sa veličinom koju biste želeli da dobijete; molim vas, ne šaljite mi svoje mere, već samo veličinu koja vam odgovara prema tablici mera; ukoliko nosite neku međuveličinu, savetujem vam da mi pošaljete veličinu koja odgovara vašem obimu kukova - obim struka ćete lako podesiti prilikom šivenja.
  • igra je otvorena za sve čitaoce, bez obzira da li živite u Srbiji ili inostranstvu; ipak, navedite zemlju u kojoj živite.
  • nasumično ću izabrati troje čitalaca, od kojih bar jedan mora biti iz Srbije - ukoliko u prva dva izvlačenja ni jedan čitalac ne bude iz Srbije, izdvojiću grupu onih čitalaca koji su odavde i zatim iz te grupe nasumično izvući trećeg dobitnika.
  • rok za prijavu za nagradu je do petka, 19.07.2013., u ponoć, prema GMT +1 vremenskoj zoni; u subotu, 20.07.2013. ću objaviti imena dobitnika.
  • kroj će biti rukom crtan na flis papiru, bez dodataka za šavove; instrukcije će biti relativno kratke, dovoljne da objasne elementarne korake, i ilustrovane sa par fotografija.
  • kroj i instrukcije ću poslati kada izmodelujem šnit u traženoj veličini; za ovo će mi biti potrebno neko vreme, ali se nadam da će mi 10ak dana biti dovoljno.

Here are the rules of the giveaway:
  • leave a comment on this post, along with the pattern size you'd like to get; please, don't send me your measurements, but the actual size you need; if you're between two sizes, I advise you to pick the one that fits your hips well - you'll alter the waist size easily during the sewing.
  • the giveaway is open for all the readers, no matter where they live; however, please state the country you're living in.
  • I'll pick randomly three readers, where at least one of them must be from Serbia - in case the first two winners aren't from Serbia, I'll make a separate group consisted only from locals and pick one of the names randomly.
  • you can apply for the giveaway until Friday, 19.07.2013. at midnight, GMT +1 time zone; I'll announce the winners on Saturday 20.07.2013.
  • the pattern will be drafted by hand, on a tissue paper, and it will have no SAs; the instructions will be brief, with a few photos to illustrate the sewing steps.
  • I'll send the patterns and instructions as soon as I draft them in requested sizes; it will take me some time, but I think 10 days will be enough.

Jul 9, 2013

Nougat dress, variation #3

Za vikend sam sašila još jednu varijaciju Nugat haljine. Ova verzija je veoma jednostavnog kroja, koji se brzo i lako šije (napravila sam haljinu za jedno veče, a kroj je prikladan za sve sa osnovnim znanjem šivenja), a ima zanimljive šavove i brusne, koji čine haljinu veoma interesantnom. Brusne na prednjem delu formiraju oblik slova "V", a panel na struku je asimetričan, baš kao i kod varijacije #2. Paneli suknje formiraju skoro četvrtinu kruga, pa haljina ima lep pad.
Sašivena je od veoma laganog i mekog puplina, koji sam nedavno kupila veoma povoljno. Pošto se materijal ne providi, nisam postavljala haljinu, tako da je idealna za tropske vrućine koje se bliže, jer je gotovo ni ne osećam na telu.

I made another variation of the Nougat dress for the weekend. This version has a rather simple pattern, that can be sewn easily and quickly (it took me one night to sew it, from fabric cutting to completion; the pattern is suitable for those with intermediate sewing skill level), and has a very interesting seaming that adds some drama to the dress. Front darts form a "V" shape, and the waist yoke is asymmetrical, just like on the variation #2. Skirt panels form almost a quarter of a circle, giving the dress a nice flow.
It's made of a very light and soft poplin, that I had recently bought for cheap. Since the fabric isn't transparent, I didn't line the dress, which makes it perfect for hot summer days that are ahead of us, since I almost don't feel it on the body.

Uslikala sam haljinu na krojačkoj lutki, kako bih vam pokazala detalje koje inače možda ne biste primetili. Lutka je malo mršavija od mene, pa haljina ne stoji idealno na njoj.

I snapped some photos of the dress on a dress form, to show you the details you wouldn't be able to see otherwise. The dress form is thinner than I am, so the dress doesn't fit it perfectly.


Malo sam podesila osvetljenje i kontrast na ovoj slici, kako bi se brusne bolje videle. Kliknite na sliku da je uvećate.

I changed the contrast / brightness on this image, so you could see the darts. Click on the picture to enlarge it.


Budući da je haljina jednobojna, htela sam da je malo oplemenim, pa sam okovratnik, otvore za ruke i porub izvezla koncem u kontrastnoj boji.

Since the dress is made of mono colored fabric, I wanted to add some trim to it, so I embroidered the neckline, armholes and the hemline in a contrasting color.


Evo kako haljina izgleda na meni. U nedelju sam je nosila na rođendanskoj proslavi, ukombinovanu sa srebrnim sandalama, tašnom i nakitom. U ponedeljak sam je ponovo obukla za posao, uz bele baletanke, i belu jaknicu, što je haljini dalo poslovniji izgled.

Here's how the dress looks on me. I wore it on Sunday to a birthday party, and combined it with silver accessories. On Monday I wore it again, with white flats and white light jacket, which made the dress more office appropriate. 





Prethodni članci o Nugat haljini: / Previous articles about the Nougat dress:

Jul 7, 2013

Suknja sa faltama / Skirt with pleats

U minulih meces dana sam imala baš mnogo zbivanja, koja su mi dosta poremetila planove, i zbog kojih sam morala malo da pregrupišem obaveze i postavim im odgovarajuće prioritete. Dobra stvar u celoj priči je da sam našla novi posao, koji donosi hleb na sto (i mnogo više od hleba, nadam se!), i koji će mi obezbediti sredstva za produkciju svojih krojeva. Loša stvar je što više nemam toliko slobodnog vremena, tako da će prodaja krojeva krenuti malo kasnije nego što sam inicijalno planirala.

Last month brought some new moments to my life, which changed my plans and set some new priorities. The good thing is that I found a new job, that brings food to the table (and much more, I hope!), and that will provide the means for my patterns' production. The downside is that I don't have as much spare time as I did before, and this will postpone the patterns sale.

Ipak, uspela sam da ukradem malo vremena da sašijem par stvari - slatku haljinu o kojoj ću uskoro pisati, i veoma zanimljivu suknju koju vidite na slikama ispod. 

However, I did manage to steal some time to sew a couple of garments - a cute dress I'll write about soon, and a very interesting skirt you can see on the pictures bellow. 

O ovoj suknji maštam već par godina. Ideju sam dobila od slične suknje koju sam videla u prodavnici - izvrnute falte, koje se pretvaraju u gajke za kaiš. Slična varijacija na temu mogla se naći i u Burdi  1/2008, s tim što su gajke napravljene tako što su otvorene velike rupice za dugmad, kroz koje se provlači kaiš. Davne 2008. sam sašila sebi pomenutu varijaciju, ali nisam bila zadovoljna ni izgledom ni ponašanjem suknje. Problem je bio u tome što ovaj model nema klasičan pojas, koji bi suknji dao potreban oblik na prelazu s kukova na struk, pa mi je suknja stajala prilično nisko, što mojoj građi nikako ne pristaje. Dodatno, kad god bih sela, suknja bi se podigla malo u vis, a onda bi pojas suknje stajao kao obruč oko mog struka, ne prijanjajući uz telo. Ako imate naglašen struk, kao što ja imam, verovatno ste i sami imali prilike da iskusite ovo i zmate o čemi pričam.  

I've been dreaming of this skirt for a few years now. I got the idea from a similar RTW skirt - it had inverted kick pleats that served as belt loops as well. A similar pattern could be found in the 1/2008 BWOF, but the belt loops were made as large button holes through which the belt was inserted. I made myself a skirt using the mentioned pattern back in 2008, but I wasn't satisfied with the shape and behavior of the skirt. The BWOF pattern didn't have a waistband or a waist yoke that would give the skirt the required shape at hips - waist area. Therefore, the skirt sat too low on my hips, which doesn't suite my body shape at all. Additionally, whenever I would had sat, the skirt would rise up a bit, and the waistline stood as some sort of hoop around my waist. If you have a tiny waist as I do, you have probably experienced a similar problem, and you know what I'm talking about.

Slika iz Burde 1/2008
Picture from BWOF 1/2008


Dakle, trebala mi je suknja koja ima klasičan pojas, koja stoji visoko na struku, ali takva da falte prelaze u gajke za pojas. Znala sam šta želim, ali nisam znala kako to da izvedem - sve do sada. Tačnije, shvatila sam pre 2 godine kako da napravim kroj, ali sam imala par neuspelih pokušaja dok nisam dobila pravi oblik. Naime, prošle godine sam krenula da šijem suknju koja je završila u kanti za đubre - odnos širine falti i same suknje nije bio dobar, ali sam kroz to iskustvo mnogo naučila. Novi pokušaj je usledio pre jedno mesec dana - i bio bi dobar da nisam peglom progorela platno (ups!). Kad god napravim ovakvu početničku grešku zapitam se da li sam jedina. Imate li i vi ovakve gafove?
Treća sreća, kažu ljudi. 

So, I need a skirt with a classic waist yoke, that sat high on my waist, but with inverted kick pleats that transformed into belt loops. I knew exactly what I wanted, but I had no idea how to make it - until now, that is. Well, I figured it out 2 years ago, actually, but I had several failures until I got the right shape. Last year I started sewing a skirt that ended up in a trash bin - the pleats and skirt width ratio was all wrong, but i learnt a lot through that experience. A new attempt happened a month ago - it would have been a successful one hadn't I burnt the fabric with an iron (oops!). Whenever I make such a beginner mistake, I wonder if I'm the only one. Do you ever experience such guff?  

Evo kako izgleda suknja. Moja verzija ima i džepove, koje mnogo volim. Prednja i zadnja strana imaju po pet falti. Centralna falta na prednjoj strani je jedina koja se ne preliva u gajku, kako bi kaiš na sredini mogao normalno da stoji. Prelaz između pojasa i suknje, kao i ivice džepova su ukrašeni paspulom u šavu. Sve falte su ušivene pri vrhu, šavom dugim otprilike 5cm, odakle otvoreno padaju, dajući suknji volumen. Takođe, sve  ivice falti su preštepane, kako se pregib falti vremenom ne bi izgubio. Ovo prilično olakšava posao prilikom peglanja suknje. Kao što vidite, razlika između moje i Burdine verije je i u tome što ja nisam prišivala faltu za suknju u gornjem delu, tako da na mojoj suknji falte imaju trodimenzionalnost.

So, here's how the skirt looks. My version has pockets, which I adore. There are five inverted kick pleats on both front and back. The central front pleat is the only one that doesn't convert into a belt loop, allowing the belt to sit properly on the center front. The skirt top / waist yoke seam and the pockets are trimmed with black piping. All the pleats are closed with a 5cm long stitch at the top of the skirt, and are open from that point on, giving the skirt a nice volume. Also, all the pleats are toptsitched along the edges, to keep the fold line in place. This also makes the pressing much easier. As you can see, a difference between my and BWOF's version is that I didn't sew the pleats to the skirt in the upper part, so the pleats on my skirt have the third dimension. 


  

A evo kako suknja izgleda na meni. Jako mi se sviđja u kombinaciji sa crnim bluzama, kojih nemam mnogo - eto povoda da sašijem još koju košuljicu. Mislim da gajke bile mnogo efektnije kada bi kaiš bio u crnoj boji, jer bi se kontrast mnogo bolje vide. No, nemam adekvatan crni kaiš; dok ne nabavim neki, poslužiće bež pleteni kaišić.

Finally, here's how the skirt looks on me. I really like it in combination with black tops, and I don't have many of those - a nice excuse for me to make few more blouses. I think the belt loops would look better it the belt was black, the contrast would make them more prominent. However, I don't have an adequate black belt; until I get one, the beige braided belt would do.