Dec 23, 2013

How to shorten a jacket zipper

How often do you sew jackets with a zipper closure? Do you have a favorite type of zipper you keep using again and again? What do you do when a pattern calls for a non-standardized zipper length? Do you know how to shorten a zipper and how do you do it?

* za verziju teksta na srpskom, pogledajte ovde.


A few days ago I started working on a new jacket which, you've guessed, has a zipper closure. This has given me an idea to show you a very simple technique I'm using on almost all the zippers.
But, before that, I'll give you some technical details about jacket zippers. These mechanisms can be found in various lengths and with various teeth, which can be metal or plastic teeth, and can be spiral or single teeth.



I usually use the ones with single plastic teeth. Although I like the looks of the metal zippers, I find these mechanisms too rough and heavy for jackets made of light and soft fabrics. I avoid the zippers with spiral teeth, as I don't like how they look. So, I'm left with the ones that have single plastic teeth.

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These zippers can be easily shortened. The teeth can be easily removed, but the question is how to secure the zipper end and keep the zipper head from falling off? I'll show you how I do it in the following text.
Measure the length of the zipper you need and the length you need to cut off. I usually measure directly on the jacket, as this way I am sure I will measure just the right length.


I shorten the measured zipper length by 2-3 teeth, as shown on the picture - the upper pin marks the exact length I need, while the bottom pin marks the length shortened by 2 teeth. This way I am sure the zipper teeth won't get stuck in a seam.


Then I make a zipper stop using a thread in a matching color. I make a few stitches around the zipper band, and then I make loops around the stitched thread.


Once the zipper stop is made, I can remove the extra teeth. I use these two wire pliers for this.


I remove the teeth one by one, starting from the top of the zipper band and moving towards the new zipper stop. This way I make sure I don't damage the teeth I need.


Once enough teeth has been pulled out, I cut off the extra zipper band and I'm left with the zipper in a length I needed.


When sewing the zipper to the fabric, I additionally secure the zipper stop by folding the zipper band to the side and twisting it one more time. This way I make a fold that will stop the zipper head from falling off of the zipper band.


Here's how the zipper looks once it's being sewed into the jacket and closed. You'll notice I left the right zipper band longer than the left one, as I wanted to make the zipper a trim of the jacket. The zipper head is secured from falling off, and my alteration on the zipper is invisible. If I wanted to secure the zipper more, I could have added the zipper stop to the right side of the zipper. I will consider doing this once the jacket is completed.


P.S. You have probably noticed double posts - one in English and the other in Serbian. I wanted to try blogging this way, so you could read the posts more easily. Let me know if this suits you!

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Kako skratiti rajsferšlus za jaknu

Koliko često šijete jakne sa rajsferšlusom? Imate li omiljeni tip rajsferšlusa koji uvek koristite? Šta radite kada kroj traži rajsferšlus nestandardne dužine? Umete li da skratite rajsferšlus, i kako to radite?

* to read the text in English, click here.


Pre koji dan sam počela da radim na novoj jaknici koja, pogodićete, ima rajsferšlus zakopčavanje. To mi dade ideju da vam pokažem veoma jednostavnu tehniku koju koristim gotovo kod svakog rajsferšlusa. 
No, pre toga, par tehničkih informacija o samim rajsferšlusima za jaknu. Ovi mehanizmi postoje u različitim dužinama i sa različitim zupcima, koji mogu biti metalni ili plastični, kao i pojedinačni ili spiralni.



Ja najčešće radim sa rajferšlusima koji imaju plastične, pojedinačne zupce. Iako mi se najviše sviđa izgled metalnih rajsferšlusa, ovi mehanizmi mi često deluju previše grubi ili veoma teški za jakne od laganih ili mekih materijala. Spiralne rajsferšluse uvek izbegavam jer, iskreno, meni nisu preterano lepi. Dakle, ostaju plastični, sa pojedinačnim zupcima.

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Plastični rajsferšlusi sa pojedinačnim zupcima se veoma lako skraćuju. Zupci se lako mogu ukloniti, ali ostaje pitanje kako i čime osigurati glavu rajsferšlusa da ne spadne sa trake? Pokazaću vam u narednom tekstu kako ja to radim.
Izmerite koliko od rajsferšlusa treba da otsečete, obeležite na traci rajsferšlusa liniju. Ja obično merim rajsferšlus direktno na jakni, jer sam tako sigurna da ću odmeriti tačnu dužinu koja mi je potrebna.


Izmerenu dužinu smanjim za 2-3 zupca, kao što je prikazano na slici - gornja špenadla obeležava tačnu dužinu, dok donja predstavlja dužinu smanjenu za dva zupca. Na ovaj način se osiguravam da se zupci rajsferšlusa neće zaglaviti u samom šavu. 


Zatim koncem u odgovarajućoj boji napravim graničnik iznad prethodno obeleženog zupca. Napravim par bodova oko trake, a zatim dodatno ojačam novi graničnik, praveći sitne bodove oko prethotno prošivenog konca.


Kada sam napravila graničnik, mogu da uklonim višak zubaca, za šta koristim par malih klešta za žicu.


Uklanjam jedan po jedan zubac, u smeru od vrha rajsferšlusa ka novom graničniku. Na ovaj način se osiguravam da neću oštetiti konac graničnika, niti neki od zubaca koji mi trebaju :-).


Kada sam oslobodila dovoljno trake, otsecam višak zubaca, i imam rajsferšlus u dužini koja mi treba.


Kada prišivam rajsferšlus za materijal, dodatno osiguram graničnik, tako što traku iznad graničnika savijem u stranu, a zatim još jednom uvijem, kako bih stvorila pregib koji će sprečiti glavu rajsferšlusa da spadne sa trake.


Evo kako rajsferšlus izgleda kada je prišiven i zakopčan. Primetićete da sam desni deo ostavila dužim, htela sam da malo fazoniram jaknu. Glava rajsferšlusa je osigurana, neće spasti, a moja izmena je praktično nevidljiva. Ako želim dodatno da se osiguram, mogu da dodam graničnik i na desnu stranu mehanizma, no o tome ću razmisliti kada jakna bude gotova.


Verovatno ste primetili duplirane postove - jedan na srpskom, a drugi na engleskom jeziku. Htela sam da probam da olakšam čitaocima i učinim članke čitljivijim. Javite mi da li vam ovakav način blogovanja odgovara!

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