Mar 13, 2014

Zlata skirt sewalong: #9 Assemble the skirt


Zlata skirt sewalong: #9 Assemble the skirt

It's time to sew waist yokes to the skirt panels and to assemble the skirt. After these steps are completed you'll have an idea of how the finished skirt will look, and you'll finally be able to try it on.

Fuse the fusible interfacing to the wrong side of waist yokes - to both front and back panels and their facings. Choose the interfacing according to the fabric you're working with - the heavier and thicker fabrics call for heavy weight interfacing and vice versa.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #9 Assemble the skirt

Since the view C is the easiest to work with, I'll show you how to attach the waist yoke on this variation first, and later on I'll demonstrate the technique for the views A and B.

So, with right sides together, align the bottom edge of he waist yoke with the top edge of the skirt panel. Pin the layers together at the center of their width.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #9 Assemble the skirt

Then pin the side edges of the panels.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #9 Assemble the skirt

Using a dense set of pins pin the layers together along their width.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #9 Assemble the skirt

Sew the pieces together and press the seams open. Repeat the process on both front and back skirt panels.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #9 Assemble the skirt

Zlata skirt sewalong: #9 Assemble the skirt

Optionally, clip the ends of the SAs, in order to reduce bulk on the side seams. I usually clip the SAs on all medium to heavy weight fabrics.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #9 Assemble the skirt

Let's get back to the views A and B. I will use pics from both of the skirts, in order to show you all the necessary details you need to pay attention to.
So, fold the belt loops towards the right side of the skirt panel, pulling them away from the top edge of the panel as much as possible. You need to clear the top edge of the panel in order to continue sewing. To secure the belt loops from moving, I advice you to pin them to the skirt panel.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #9 Assemble the skirt

Sew the waist yoke to the skirt panel using the previously described technique. Make sure the stitch line is placed as close as possible to the bottom of the belt loop; also make sure you're not sewing over the belt loop.
This is how the seam should look from the right side, with belt loop folded down.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #9 Assemble the skirt

If you notice the waist yoke isn't sewed properly, and there is some space left between it and the bottom of the belt loop, like shown on the picture below, try to fix this and repeat the stitching on that area.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #9 Assemble the skirt

This is how the stitch should look from the wrong side of the fabric. The V shaped cut on the SA is a bottom of the belt loop.

 Zlata skirt sewalong: #9 Assemble the skirt

If you want to trim the waist yoke with a band, like I did on my view A skirt, now is the time to do it. Press the seams and pin the band to the skirt, then sew it.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #9 Assemble the skirt

Straighten up the belt loops so that they form straight lines with the lower pleats. Pin the loops to the top of the waist yoke. Optionally, baste or machine stitch the tops of the loops to the top of the waist yoke.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #9 Assemble the skirt

It's time to sew together the skirt panels along the side seams.
I suggest sewing the right side seam first. Make sure all the horizontal seams are perfectly matched along the side seam. With right sides together pin the layers and then sew them with machine. Press the seams open.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #9 Assemble the skirt

When sewing the left side seam, leave the seam open in the top part, in order to insert a zipper. Note that in case you're sewing an invisible zipper, the slit should be 2 - 3 cm shorter than the length of the zipper.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #9 Assemble the skirt


Zlata Sewalong - the posts

The skirt is almost finished, and now you can finally see how it will look when done. Also, you can try it on and optionally make any required fitting alterations to it.
Tomorrow we'll sew the invisible zipper. 

Stay tuned!

How to buy the pattern


Stepalica: Zlata skirt pattern
Zlata skirt pattern costs $11.98,and it can be bought via my Etsy shop
I use 2Checkout as a payment collector - it is an equivalent to PayPal - which accepts the following payment methods:

* PayPal via 2checkout (www.2co.com)
* Credit / Debit cards via 2checkout : Visa, Dina Card, Master Card, American Express, Discover

PayPal doesn't support selling option for my country yet, so I use 2Checkout payment collector instead.




When making a purchase order, select "Other" in the payment options. I have to manually issue an invoice for you, via 2Checkout system. The invoice contains a link where you can complete the purchase - it's a page on 2Checkout's website. Once you fill in your billing information, you can chose to pay either by using PayPal account or your credit card. You don't have to register to 2checkout and you won't be charged any additional fees. It's simple, fast and secure. Once the payment is completed, I will enable the pattern download on my Etsy store. I monitor the state of my Etsy store several times a day, and I get instant emails whenever any change is made, so the purchase is usually completed within the same day. Sometimes, due to my daily duties and a time zone differences, it takes more than a day to complete the purchase.
For any additional information about the pattern or the purchase, feel free to email me at: anajan.stepalica [at] gmail [dot] com


Šivenje Zlata suknje: #9 sastavljanje suknje


Šivenje Zlata suknje: #9 sastavljanje suknje

Na redu je prišivanje pojasa na suknju i sastavljanje suknje duž bočnih šavova. Nakon ovog koraka, imaćete jasniju predstavu o tome kako će gotova suknja izgledati, i moći ćete da je isprobate.

Nalepite lepljivo platno na naličje panela za pojas - na oba prednja i oba zadnja panela. Birajte lepljivo platno koje odgovara debljini tkanine koju koristite, tj. za deblje materijale birajte deblje i gušće lepljivo platno, i obrnuto.

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #9 sastavljanje suknje

Prvo ću vam pokazati kako se prišiva pojas na suknji C, budući da je ona najlakša za rad. kada to savladamo, preći ćemo na suknje A i B.

Dakle, postavite pojas preko panela suknje, licem materijala prema licu, tako da se donja ivica pojasa poravna sa gornjom ivicom panela suknje. Prvo poravnajte sredinu pojasa sa sredinom panela suknje i uhvatite slojeve špenadlom.

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #9 sastavljanje suknje

Potom spojte krajeve pojasa i panela suknje, hvatajući ih špenadlama.

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #9 sastavljanje suknje

Gustim nizom špenadli i sa ravnomernim razmacima spojte slojeve celom dužinom pojasa. 

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #9 sastavljanje suknje

Proštepajte delove zajedno i raspeglajte šavove. Ponovite postupak na zadnjem panelu suknje.

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #9 sastavljanje suknje

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #9 sastavljanje suknje

Opciono, zasecite krajeve dodataka za šavove, kako biste smanjili zadebljanje tkanine na bočnim spojevima prednjeg i zadnjeg dela suknje. Ja volim da otsečem vrhove na svim srednje debelim i debelim tkaninama.

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #9 sastavljanje suknje

Da se vratimo na varijacije A i B. I ovde ću koristiti slike obe suknje, kako bih vam što bolje dočarala sve potrebne detalje na koje je potrebno obratiti pažnju.
Dakle, presavijte gajke za kaiš ka licu panela suknje, koliko god je moguće. Ideja je da se gajke sklone sa radne površine, kako biste mogli neometano da priđete gornjoj ivici panela. Kako se gajke ne bi pomerale, savetujem da ih uhvatite špenadlama za panel suknje.


Prišijte pojas za panel suknje koristeći prethodno opisanu tehniku. Vodite pri tom računa o tome da šav prošijete što bliže dnu gajke za kaiš, a da pri tom ne prošijete i gajku.

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #9 sastavljanje suknje

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #9 sastavljanje suknje

Spoj između pojasa i panela suknje bi trebalo ovako da izgleda.

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #9 sastavljanje suknje

Ako primetite da pojas nije prišiven tik uz dno gajke, kao što je slučaj na slici ispod, popravite šav.

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #9 sastavljanje suknje

Gledano s naličja materijala, šav bi ovako trebalo da izgleda - zasek u tkanini, oblika slova V je podnožje gajke.

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #9 sastavljanje suknje


Ako želite da ukrasite pojas našivanjem trake, sada je vreme da to uradite. Raspeglajre šavove, pa pričvrstite traku špenadlama za suknju na željenom mestu. Prišijte traku za suknju.

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #9 sastavljanje suknje

Ispravite gajke za kaiš i postavite ih na pojas suknje, tako da, zajedno sa faltom, formiraju pravu liniju. Pričvrstite gajke za pojas koristeći špenadle. Opciono, ufircajte ili mašinom prišijte gajke za suknju.

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #9 sastavljanje suknje


Vreme je da sastavite prednji i zadnji deo suknje duž bočnih šavova.
Savetujem da prvo prošijete desni bočni šav. Pri tom, pažljivo uklopite poprečne šavove na prednjem i zadnjem panelu, tako da se savešeno poklapaju duž bočnog šava. Uhvatite slojeve špenadlama, pa ih proštepajte mašinom. Raspeglajte šavove.

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #9 sastavljanje suknje

Kada budete šili levi bočni šav, ostavite otšiven gornji deo šava, za prišivanje rajsferšlusa. Primetite da, ukoliko šijete nevidljivi rajsferšlus, otvor treba da bude 2 - 3 cm kraći od dužine samog rajsferšlusa.

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #9 sastavljanje suknje

Kupovina kroja

Zlata kroj za suknju košta $11.98, ali kupci iz Srbije ovaj šnit mogu kupiti za upola manje novca, tj. za 500 RSD.

Kroj se može kupiti u dolarskoj valuti preko moje onlajn prodavnice na Etsy sajtu, ili uplatom novca u dinarskoj valuti na moj žiro račun.

Napominjem da dinarske cene ne važe ukoliko kupujete preko Etsy prodavnice.

Za sve dodatne informacije o kupovini, molim vas šaljite mi email na adresu: anajan.stepalica [at] gmail [dot] com.




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